Like every car guy, I've been given 2 pieces of advice... "Never buy another Man's project, it will never run right' and "Never build your own track car... buy a complete one, for cheap, after it has bankrupted the builder/ previous owner." I usually stick to the first piece of advice... but yesterday I dove head first into the 2nd piece of advice and bought this:




So long, Rotary... Hello Torque


This car is super quick... it fights for traction on the 335 wide tires. The previous owner claims it has just over 400whp on his tune... and after driving it, I believe him. I'm going to spend the winter cleaning up the many loose ends in the car and tweaking it for my needs to have it ready to race next spring.
Parts list from the previous owner:
- tri-point wide body (very wide)
- CCW 17x10" wheels up front, 17x11" in rear. 285/335 width Michelin Pilot Sports
- RE Anemiya-like front bumper w/fixed headlights w/bi-xenon HID's
- huge aluminum radiator w/built in oil cooler (not connected)
- Futral FM13 cam
- trunion bearing upgrade
- LS6 intake/valley cover and ported TB
- Comp-r lifters
- chromoly pushrods (properly sized for pre-load)
- swain coated long tubes from JTR
- fly-cut pistons
- FFHP ported 853 heads (~10.9:1 compression)
- ARP head bolts
- ARP rod bolts
- 2000 LS-1 block - has been rebuilt w/new bearings, oil pumps, all TTY fasteners replaced during rebuild w/new ones (700 miles on rebuild)
- ported LS-6 oil pump
- Hinson swap parts
- aluminum flywheel, custom clutch from carolina clutch (as $1000 for both, feels great, holds great and at ~29lbs, spins up great)
- aluminum driveshaft
- recently rebuild T56 (shifts perfectly, carbon synchros, billet pads)
- Custom Stop-Tech front calipers (ST40s) and discs, custom spindle mounts, all properly sized to work w/stock rear brakes, manual rear prop valve, 1" MC (vacuum assist intact), stainless lines
- RacePak digital street dash (has dimmed, still works)
- PLX wideband
- 4 point chromoly roll bar
- 15 gal fuel cell, high flow racing fuel pump (300gph), custom fuel lines; 36lb injectors, return-style fueling setup
- custom koni/ground control spring/shock setup (spec'd by Lee Grimes, firm, but better ride than any of the Japanese setups)
- delrin suspension bushings
- new wheel bearings
- AWR rear rods (forgot exact name, need to machine the rear arms to get these in)
- solid diff mount, reinforced diff subframe mount (add'l material welded in)
- Momo racing seat, steering wheel, G Force 5 point (cert date has passed)
- custom 3" to 2.5" exhaust
- poly engine and tranny mounts
- no radio
- roof (that had sunroof) cut and replaced w/roof from an RX7 GTU
- shaved side moldings
- British Racing Green paint
- percy's speedglass in front and rear
- custom fuse box setup (to handle all the additional electronics and bypass the old wiring)
- manual steering rack
- no A/C
- custom cold air intake
- battery relocated to behind pass. seat, in cubby (in battery box)
- fully rebuilt T2 diff, slightly thicker clutch packs for better lock-up, all new bearings, cryo'd.
- roll bar has been painted silver
- I may have forgotten some additional items, but if it could be done, I probably did it.
- over $35k in parts
- weighs 2650 w/quarter tank of gas
-car was built for One Lap of America race but never entered.
I still havent decided if this is the best thing I've ever bought... or the dumbest

. Only time will tell.