Keeping the low beams on while high beams are also on.

[turboboost]

I have projector lights on my bug eye and they work awesome. The only issue I'm having is that when I turn the high beam on the lows shut off and leaves a dead spot in the light pattern. So I want the lights To work like the 04 and up lights. Is there a way To do this safely?

[hydrochloric]

IIRC from fiddling with my fogs, the relay actuator side loses +12V when you switch to high-beams.  So you'd just have to find the low-beam relay, and give it constant +12V power on that leg (the normal headlight switch grounds the other side).  I would double, triple, and quadruple check all this against the wiring diagrams obviously, I could be mis-remembering (and your car could have different wiring).

Thing is, though...  I wouldn't do it anyway.  You said you have projectors, so you may have separate bulbs (if you had a standard H4, this would be stupid as hell because of the heat produced), but the wiring isn't designed for that kind of current.  A 65W high-beam (typical) draws A LOT of current.  Power = Current * Voltage (P=I*V), so 65W = Current * 12V.  Current equals 5.4 amps.  That's a fair amount of power.  Plus, the voltage at the bulbs is unlikely to be 12V.  It tends to be closer to 11V, because of resistance and all that, so the current will be almost 6 amps.  If you toss in a 55W bulb (typical lowbeam), now you're talking about 11 amps.  PER SIDE.  22 amps is A LOT of power to be running through your dashboard.  Not to mention the heat produced, nearly doubled.

I suspect the newer models that run lowbeams and highs at once have separate wiring.  If you really want to do this, I would recommend you add secondary relays, very close to the bulbs (under the hood) triggered by the original relays, but hooked directly to the battery, using at least 14Ga (rated for 40A at 12V) wires (through a fuse, obviously).  That will isolate the in-dash wiring from the high-current of the headlight bulbs, so if a wire burns up, it'll be the under-hood ones- less risk of fire, and easier to replace.This will also brighten the bulbs, since there's less wire for the voltage to drop across.

Whatever path you choose, do your research and be smart.  Don't cut any wire unless you're damn sure what it does.

[FastfreddyRs]

Its really easy,  all you need to do is ground the low beam ground to the chassis at the bulb connector on the body side of the harness.   

The way the headlights work is.  once you turn the switch on it supply's 12v  then the low and high beam are a switched ground.   so as when you ground the low beam bulb to the chassis, whenever the switch is on your low beams will be on.

I've done this on a number of subarus who have switched out the lights.  And never had a fire!! or melted and switches

[hydrochloric]

Honestly?  Holy crap, I would never trust it...  Is the wiring really designed well enough to take double the current?

[turboboost]

I know how to do this now. Will a 50 amp relay sustain running a 55w bulb and a 100w  bulb?

[hydrochloric]

Hmm...  Should be.  With a 100W, the total draw should be ~ 30A, so that seems like it can handle it.

[turboboost]

Will post an update this weekend when I get it done.

[turboboost]

OK ALMOST DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've got it all figured out and it works!!!!! It requires 6 yes SIX relays to pull it off but it can be done safely. You could do it with only 4 if you choose not to upgrade the low beam circuit but i'm doing it anyways mind as well finish the job.

This is how its done will post a wiring schematic later.

-Upgrade the low beam first. Run your power lines to the battery and attach to the #30 on all three relays, you can use 1 line for the two  joint high/low relays.
-Attach the vehicle side power and low beam ground to numbers 85 an 86 respectively for low beam.
- Ground the headlight bulb to the car.  BOOM low beam upgraded.

Heres where it got tricky.

- Do the high beam exactly the same as the low but. But we need to add the third relay. Run the power line from the #30 to the same power line as the high beam. Attach the high beams ground and power to the 2nd high beam relay as well as the first. This second relay will power the low beam while the high gets switched on. Now run the #87 line to the low beams #87 and splice it in. This wire will be energized, but when the high beams are off it just stops at the relay. But when you flip on the highs the two low beam relays just swap power.

It sounds confusing but its pretty self explanatory with the wiring map. I'll post later i'm goign to bed!!!!!!!!!!

[turboboost]

*** ONLY FOR COMPOSITE HEADLIGHTS!!!!!!!!!!!!***************