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December 18, 2017, 02:14:12 AM
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Author Topic: deadlydave's wagonzilla  (Read 17293 times)

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Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #125 on: July 19, 2017, 08:51:35 AM »
Tossed fresh coolant, oil(and filter), power steering fluid, and a new battery in the car last night.  It cranked strong but would not fire.  Only got a chance to try a couple of things, so i'll horse around with it more tonight.  There's definitely fuel coming through the new filter (i loosened a fitting on the line to check).

Offline madlife

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #126 on: July 26, 2017, 08:18:59 AM »
Is she running?

Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #127 on: July 26, 2017, 11:11:07 AM »
Nope, didn't want to bore folks with the details.  Fred's helped me with some advice on a couple of things.  Still not running though.

I'm going to pull a spark plug or two and check the end for fuel.  It's possible that the Injectors are not firing for some...reason.  I know the injectors are actually getting fuel, because I pulled the fuel pressure regulator off the rails and it absolutely hosed me with a cool refreshing mist of '93.  Fuel pump and Fuel Filter(new) check out similarly.

Symptoms:
-Car cranks but does not even sputter.  I suspect the Injectors aren't firing, but why?  A bad ground somewhere?  Disconnected "mandatory" sensor or wire somewhere?

Things I tried:

Fuel:
-Fuel Pump Primes into bucket on prime
-Fuel Pump flows fuel into bucket on crank
-Fuel Filter flows fuel into bucket on prime and crank
-Fuel Pressure Regulator flows and doesn't barf fuel into the vacuum line
-Fuel rail is definitely pressurized, got a serious spray when I disconnected the regulator

Electrical:
-Tested all 4 ignition coil packs, all showed spark in plug, when held against block
-Replaced Battery Negative Terminal Connector
-New Battery
-Visually Checked all engine bay and passenger compartment fuses and relays
-Meter-tested all engine bay and passenger compartment fuses and relays
-Tried both the JDM and USDM Oil Pressure Switch
-Cleaned, wire brushed, and installed 8 or 9 electrical grounds on body
-Inspected most ground wires between neg terminal, engine, and body for play and broken wires within sheaths.

Timing:
-Tried both the JDM and USDM Crank Sensor
-Tried the JDM and USDM Cam Sensor
-Counted sensor-read teeth on back of crank pulley (same between engines)
-Counted sensor-read teeth on back of cam pulley (same between engines)
-New Timing belt service, everything's still lined up correctly.

CELs:
-Detected 1, P0183 Fuel Temp Circiut A high  --> The internet is out on whether this will stop the car from starting (on almost every subie-specific thread, the answer has been no)

Offline madlife

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #128 on: July 26, 2017, 03:26:27 PM »
What tells the injectors to fire?  Follow its path and test it ALL.  Use your software testing techniques.


Mine was no spark,  caused by bad connection in the power pin on the ECU plug  with the pin on the ECU side.  That was a massive shitshow to determine...



Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #129 on: September 05, 2017, 07:54:39 AM »
Spent an hour or two testing the Engine wiring harness.  Everything tested out contiguous, and with effectively no resistance.  I couldn't find much online for what the crank and cam sensor resistances should be, one place had it listed as 1200-1500 ohms.  When I tested my cam and crank sensors, they came out to ~2100 ohms and ~2050 ohms, respectively.  The top stud on my alternator cracked a bit, maybe from over-tightening a while ago...so I ordered a new alternator along with replacement crank and cam sensors. I figured that the injectors may not be getting a good steady voltage due to the alternator circuit, so maybe not energizing enough to fire correctly?

When this stuff shows up, i'll give it another go.  My injectors were a little high, resistance-wise.  About 100-150 ohms above the high end of what I could find for specs. Maybe I should send them somewhere for testing?

Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #130 on: September 19, 2017, 03:07:03 PM »
Spent an hour or two testing the Engine wiring harness.  Everything tested out contiguous, and with effectively no resistance.  I couldn't find much online for what the crank and cam sensor resistances should be, one place had it listed as 1200-1500 ohms.  When I tested my cam and crank sensors, they came out to ~2100 ohms and ~2050 ohms, respectively.  The top stud on my alternator cracked a bit, maybe from over-tightening a while ago...so I ordered a new alternator along with replacement crank and cam sensors. I figured that the injectors may not be getting a good steady voltage due to the alternator circuit, so maybe not energizing enough to fire correctly?

When this stuff shows up, i'll give it another go.  My injectors were a little high, resistance-wise.  About 100-150 ohms above the high end of what I could find for specs. Maybe I should send them somewhere for testing?

-Tested and cleaned Injectors with a MacGuyvered rig
-Installed new Crank and Cam Sensors
-Replaced top stud of alternator...Ordered the wrong one (my car uses a '96 impreza one, I guess, not the WRX one) and just used the JDM's top stud.

Put everything back together and the car sputtered to life.  Throwing a CEL for front o2 sensor...it's a problem...the JDM Passenger side exhaust manifold doesn't have a hole for one.   So I have to swap my stock US one onto the car.  Thankfully the bolts on the JDM engine still look great, and access is easy on my removed US engine.  I drove it around the block anyway, no hood. 

So close, just a few more things to tidy up, then inspection, then driving!

Offline Kavik

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #131 on: September 20, 2017, 09:26:49 PM »
Missed this when it was posted, but that's awesome news  :mrgreen:

So, sticking with the stock US manifold? Or getting a bung welded into the JDM one?
-Daryl (Albany)                                                                                   ಠ_ಠ
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Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #132 on: September 21, 2017, 12:44:42 PM »
Missed this when it was posted, but that's awesome news  :mrgreen:

So, sticking with the stock US manifold? Or getting a bung welded into the JDM one?

US Manifold for now.  I got it on the car in under 2 hours.  15 min to get manifold off new engine.  15 min to get manifold off old engine.  90 min to get to Goldstein and back for gaskets. 5 minutes to trim US heat shield for clearance, 15 minutes to bolt up, install, and plug in front o2.

'Dip sold me P&P'd USDM manifolds which i'll put on eventually, just didn't want to mess with retuning just yet.  Car is good, no CELS, fresh BFG Rivals.  Gonna top off the gas tank with new gas, throw in some washer juice, and get it inspected today.

Offline BenjiJosef

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #133 on: September 22, 2017, 10:45:05 AM »
 :mrgreen:

Well done sir. Well done.
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Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #134 on: September 25, 2017, 01:46:15 PM »
:mrgreen:

Well done sir. Well done.

Thanks man.  The engine swap road is nearing it's end.  Just a few odds and ends to tidy up, then datalogs/tune adjustments.

Then more mods.  :angel:

Offline madlife

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #135 on: October 02, 2017, 02:50:33 PM »
Tis this your first engine swap?   If so,  thats gotta be an awesome feeling of accomplishment.

Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #136 on: October 03, 2017, 08:28:58 AM »
Tis this your first engine swap?   If so,  thats gotta be an awesome feeling of accomplishment.

Yep.  I had a lot of offers of help, but I had to work on the thing in fits and spurts so ended up doing much of it solo.  Matt (idipskoalmint) was there for the day of reckoning (wreckoning?) when we first tried getting the engine out of the car, and came back for more punishment to help me try to get it running.  Some solid advice from Fred, along with youtube and google searches got me through. 

This week I've gotta get the turbo/uppipe gasket replaced...a giant pain but probably the last hurdle to get the car running right.

Offline Pitcrew

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #137 on: October 05, 2017, 10:44:56 PM »
...i did say give me a shout and id be down to help...but noooooooo  :buck2:
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Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #138 on: October 11, 2017, 10:17:47 AM »
Hahaha  :wink:

The Saga continues.  Car's maxing out at 12psi right now.  I'm hearing 2 distinct turbo noises: the wooshing/boosting noise, and another noise that sounds like a very distinct turbine spinning.  If i had to guess, the wastegate is partially opening or fluttering.

Actuated the BCS with the battery and cleaned it and the BCS-to-turbo and BCS-to-Intake hoses.  Verified the restrictor pill is still in place.  Verified these hoses aren't leaking.  Will re-assemble and test tonight.  i might swap out some of the hardened rubber lines for newer tubing I have laying around and move the Pill over.  I have a used low-mile BCS incoming anyway.

Offline madlife

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #139 on: October 11, 2017, 11:41:24 AM »
Hahaha  :wink:

  I'm hearing 2 distinct turbo noises:


that would be the twin turbo setup Dave!

Offline deadlydave

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #140 on: October 12, 2017, 10:18:46 AM »
that would be the twin turbo setup Dave!

One turbo uses exhaust gasses to pressurize the intake charge, and the other one uses my wallet to raise my blood pressure?

Offline Kavik

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Re: deadlydave's wagonzilla
« Reply #141 on: October 16, 2017, 01:40:40 PM »
 :2funny: :2funny:
Quote of the month right there
-Daryl (Albany)                                                                                   ಠ_ಠ
['14 Mazda3 SGT]     ['03 Sonic Yellow WRX Wagon]     ['05 WRB WRX Wagon]     ['02 PSM WRX Sedan]
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