Clutch Install slated for 12/5/09

[Photofixer]

So my friend Scott who is a master tech is gonna help me with my clutch install  
I got the parts ready, Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, Flywheel.  Even found my OEM Pulley to put back on I thought I lost it.

I know I will prolly need a couple specialty parts. One I KNOW I prolly will need is the Crankshaft stopper ST 498497100 . Now Can I use something else. Get a piece of Angle and drill a couple holes in it?  Or should I just buy it?  Fred How much does this part cost? Being a specialty part I hope I don't get rapped buying it. Do you have one I can borrow?

I am gonna bring my camera and take pictures of everything along the way, Then when I have the time I will make a really nice HOW TO in the DIY threads. That way we can have some good information to use , IF anyone ever needs it and wants to tackle the job themselves.

Material parts I will also need,   10mm Hex wrench, a 6mm Bolt to remove the release fork. White metal marker to mark the Drive shaft connection to the rear differential..

Anything else? what about lubrication of new parts?



WOOT Betty is gonna be FIXED!!!  I am still trying to figure out thou, why a symptom of a bad clutch would prevent you from shifting..

I mean You got a disc, pressure plate.. the clutch is thinner resulting in the clutch slipping.. OK  So you push the pedal , Hrydraulic fluid puts pressure on the Clutch disc cover and it removes the applied force from the Clutch disc. Since it is not making contact at this point. Shouldn't you be able to shift? Even if the contact surface on the pressure plate is worn, that should increase displacement and allow time to shift?

Anyone that has any know how to the mechanics  I would like some info if you have it.. thanks..

Marty  

P.S. SEAN YOU BASTARD!!!  

[Capitalandmotors]

I've seen a spring break on the clutch disc and lodge itself in the clutch setup. making the car near impossible to shift.

things you will also need,

14 mm socket
17 mm socket
17mm wrench
dowel pin punch to take the pins out of the axle to stub connection
a 12 mm wrench

have fun with the alignment, pins in the block to the bell housing, you may need a punch/air hammer to punch them free to get the trans to seperate from the motor.


 

[Photofixer]

Gotta do it all by feel is what you are getting at putting the Retaining pin back in? Ya I think that might be the hardest part.

crankshaft stopper??

I don't think I should have a problem with removal,  I got a new tranny built under warranty like 2k miles ago.. So that should not be seized or anything..

[Capitalandmotors]

you don't need the crank tool, to remove put breaker bar near battery hit the key, breaks the bolt free everytime. to put it back together, put car in 5th, step on the brake, have your friend tighten the bolt with a large breaker bar.

the retaining pins are pressed into the engine and there are holes in the trans case that go around the pins, however the pins are steal, the case is aluminum. and they corrode and get very pesky when trying to remove the trans, you will need to pry between the block and the bell housing to get it to seperate. or get a punch and hammer and hammer on the alignement pins to get them to break free.

and when you are trying to remove the trans, use something to jack the front of the motor up a bit so that the trans will slide out easier and not get caught in the tunnel.

and the trick to install the throwout bearing, install the bearing and fork before you install the trans, do not attach the throwout bearing to the clutch, leave it on the shaft of the transmission, then ziptie the fork  so it pushes the throwout bearing against the transmission. once it is all bolted in remove the ziptie, and give the clutch pedal a good kick, this will set the throw bearing to the clutch.  IF....... the clutch pedal sticks to the floor, reach down pull it back up. Grab a long extension and set it against the clutch fork where it comes out the trans case in the engine bay, and hit it with a hammer going toward the firewall. so it will lock into the clutch.

Also pm me for my phone # so if you get stuck i can help you thru it, i can almost do a clutch in my sleep at this point.

Ps drain the fluid from the trans first, so you don't take a bath when you remove the drive shaft.





it is a long job and you will be cursing it out, i promise that

[skyphix]

you don't need the crank tool, to remove put breaker bar near battery hit the key, breaks the bolt free everytime. to put it back together, put car in 5th, step on the brake, have your friend tighten the bolt with a large breaker bar.

the retaining pins are pressed into the engine and there are holes in the trans case that go around the pins, however the pins are steal, the case is aluminum. and they corrode and get very pesky when trying to remove the trans, you will need to pry between the block and the bell housing to get it to seperate. or get a punch and hammer and hammer on the alignement pins to get them to break free.

and when you are trying to remove the trans, use something to jack the front of the motor up a bit so that the trans will slide out easier and not get caught in the tunnel.

and the trick to install the throwout bearing, install the bearing and fork before you install the trans, do not attach the throwout bearing to the clutch, leave it on the shaft of the transmission, then ziptie the fork  so it pushes the throwout bearing against the transmission. once it is all bolted in remove the ziptie, and give the clutch pedal a good kick, this will set the throw bearing to the clutch.  IF....... the clutch pedal sticks to the floor, reach down pull it back up. Grab a long extension and set it against the clutch fork where it comes out the trans case in the engine bay, and hit it with a hammer going toward the firewall. so it will lock into the clutch.

Also pm me for my phone # so if you get stuck i can help you thru it, i can almost do a clutch in my sleep at this point.

Ps drain the fluid from the trans first, so you don't take a bath when you remove the drive shaft.





it is a long job and you will be cursing it out, i promise that

I just want to make sure this is posted twice. I've only taken the trans out once (and it was with Fred doing most of the work) and everything he says here is true, especially about calling him if necessary. He really can do it in his sleep.

[Photofixer]

what length 6mm bolt should I find at the hardware store?  When you say PINS.. I only see one in the manual.. LOL I should prolly call you later..

Marty

[tekkheadd]

Marty,

I borrowed a transmission jack from my mechanic to do mine.  might need a dp to turbo gasket unless that looks good. 

beware the ball joint nuts.  they are most likely rusted to hell and need to be hit with pb blaster several times prior and then take care not to turn the heads off those suckers.  mine were too badly rusted and i never hit them with pb blaster so we had to take the control arms off to get the axels out. 

good luck.

geoff

[crAppAchic0]

I am still trying to figure out thou, why a symptom of a bad clutch would prevent you from shifting..

I mean You got a disc, pressure plate.. the clutch is thinner resulting in the clutch slipping.. OK  So you push the pedal , Hrydraulic fluid puts pressure on the Clutch disc cover and it removes the applied force from the Clutch disc. Since it is not making contact at this point. Shouldn't you be able to shift? Even if the contact surface on the pressure plate is worn, that should increase displacement and allow time to shift?

Ah, if your clutch fluid is crap- your clutch may not completely disengage when you push the pedal down...

I remember this one car with a hydraulic clutch that had some problems with a bent clutch fork/bad throwout bearing/or-something-entirely-different, and I could tell the fluid was toast (heat transfer to the slave cylinder from the clutch fork getting too hot caused by a bad throwout bearing, which would in turn intermittently 'warm' the clutch fluid) when I had problems shifting, i.e., the clutch wouldn't completely disengage...  bleed the system, and all better.  Well, if your clutch was okay...

The clutch itself though could still be complete toast, but just have enough grip to still load the tranny enough to keep you from easily shifting.

Just another plausibility, sir...

[Capitalandmotors]

beware the ball joint nuts.  they are most likely rusted to hell and need to be hit with pb blaster several times prior and then take care not to turn the heads off those suckers.  mine were too badly rusted and i never hit them with pb blaster so we had to take the control arms off to get the axels out. 

you don't need to remove the ball joints, you can remove the 17mm head bolt in the front of the arm, where it meets at the subframe. Once the bolt is removed you can push on the wheel and the axle will pull just far enough out that it clears the stubs on the trans.  This trick does not work 06- wrx with male style inner axle flanges.

[Photofixer]

So how do I stop the FLywheel from turning when removing the bolts?  put a socket on the front of the crankshaft you said?

If I pull the engine forward will I have enough room to access the flywheel and clutch assembly.?

Fred i am gonna come on down in a little while are you at work?

[Photofixer]

WOO HOO piece of Cake. That was really Easy..  

I really like the new flywheel, It's like INSTAtorque. Had the Transmission dropped in about 1.5hr with two guys. I was all worried about the Roll pin for the release fork. That was actually not too bad, The 10mm plug was all buggered up a little bit from North Country, So it took a little bit to get the Hex key in square , Ended up taking a flat head and ball peen hammer and tapping it long enough to get the opening to accept the Hex key.


Got a few pictures.  They were all pretty much blury.  On a scale of one to ten 10 being the hardest and being a very mechanical guy I give it a 5. er 6. Their is really not much to it .. it's just time consuming.   The original clutch disc had like no rivets and was really BLUE.. from the heat.. LOL I am gonna get the flywheel resurfaced and I got a replacement bearing for it . So hopefully I can sell that. and make up a little bit of money.

I got the Clutch and flywheel new for like 370.00
I payed for labor through a friend for 325.00
Not bad considering North Country wanted 570.00 plus tax. SO I saved a few hundred and learned how to do a clutch on a Subaru.

I guess My model year there are no Dowel Pins for the front axles so we had to take them completely out of the Hubs.

Here are some pics..








Opening up her Chest with a prybar Gotta make sure it's square so it slides RIGHT out. If the angle of the dangle is different from top and bottom, You need to raise the front of the eninge a little bit so you can see its square along the opening.



No rivets.. LOL

Other Side

 Pressure Plate

OEM and replacement. I like the beefier springs...



The smaller length bolt goes on top for the tranny case.. LOL  Why won't this fucking bolt go in.  

If I had to do it again, I would that was soo much fucking fun  
Boy I need some Car tools.. BADLY..

Oh and I need to get a replacement bolt for the bottom of the starter, I lost it.. It is somewhere but we couldn't find it.

[tekkheadd]

NICE!!!!!!!oneone!111

thats pretty much what i did except it took wayyyyy longer... congrats on the success!  i'm loving my flywheel as well. 

carry on. 


geoff

[spoolordie]

When I need to do mine I'll know who to go to 

[Photofixer]

You got it brother. .But we need tools    OH byron..   OH and 100 karma faucker!

[20wrx09]

i gots some nice snap-on tools if any local guys need to use any