Need help with Interior LED Lighting Project

[gebby1029]

I have some extra LED accent lights from SuperBrightLEDs.com hanging around that I would like to make use of.  However I don't know a lot about car electronics so I am bringing my questions here.  I would like them to illuminate the front and rear passenger and driver foot wells by either coming on when the dome light does (doors open OR dome light is switched to ON) or a switch in the center console; whatever is easiest.

Currently have:
-Four ALM-RB-x3 Accent Light Modules

-Two ALM-OB-x4 Accent Light Module


Was planning to buy:
-Solder
--1/2lb 60(tin)/40(lead) rosin core at Phillip's Hardware for $12.49
-Soldering Iron
--30 watt from Harbor Freight for $4.99
-Heat Shrink
--3M
-Electrical tape
--3M
-Multimeter
--CEN-TECH 7 function digital multimeter from Harbor Freight for $8
-Car Wire
--33' rolls of 18 gauge auto wire from Advance Auto or Phillip's Hardware for $5.49

Not sure if I need to or where to get these:
-Epoxy
--What kind?
-Connectors for in between the wires and accent lights (and the wires and switch if I go that route)
--What kind and where?

Questions:
1) Solved by Kavik
2a) If I wired this in with the current LED overhead light, would I need to change the fuse to a higher amperage one?
2b) Would this require ripping apart the ceiling?
3a) If I decided to make this separate from the dome lighting, would it be okay to use the cigarette lighter?
3b) Should I wire in a fuse?

P.S. I am also planning to make another order from SuperBrightLEDs.com to replace my factory festoons with more LEDs.  I will make a thread with before and after pictures when it’s done for anyone interested.

[Kavik]

I don't have answers for you on how to wire it up....but hopefully this will give you what you need to figure out how to do it without going into the roof for the wires.

I hilighted Connection R50 that connects the "Roof Cord" to the "Bulkhead Wiring Harness", maybe you can tap into there.  And the second pic is a relay/wiring schematic that  hilighted the "Room Light" relay that you should probably check out.  Hopefully makes more sense to you then it does to me 

[gebby1029]

That first diagram is exactly what I was looking for.  I was afraid I would have to rip the roof down but now I know where to tap into for the foot well lighting.  Thanks!

[Kavik]

Glad to help 

[Photofixer]

L.E.D. Light Emitting Diode.   All Diodes conduct on .7 volts DC. Or .3 volts DC if Germanium. PER DIODE>> PER LIGHT..

Therefor if we Say According to Ohms Law..
Voltage / Resistance  = Current

So technically you could have 17 LEDS on one 12 vdc circuit but your Amperage would be so high that your lights would be dimm. IF a normal bulb.

Since LED Diodes are basically a switch so it would be like a christmas light.. It's either ON or OFF.


I don't think you can actually Kill the LED bulb on a 12 volt circuit, Throwing in a fuse will allow less current to flow.

If you use the car lighter or any other Constant 12 VDC  Constant you will need to put a switch inline with it otherwise it will ALWAYS be on  .That way you can turn it off.

If you use a 12 vdc like  your Dimmer switch , then it would be on but low voltage so it would be dim, and it would brighten when you put the dimmer switch on.

You can get creative with it too.. Get a 10k Potentiometer,   and wire that in series with the LEDS>. then you can turn the knob and make em brighter or darker... Depending on the RESISTANCE you increase or decrease...

[hookedontronics]

I can hook that up for you, however id recomment using leds from ledglow.com . They are pretty inexpensive and a lot easier to set up

[Code Blue]

thanks for posting those charts !!

I need to find out why both of my rear doors won't turn the dome light on, or trigger the alarm... and the door sensors are confirmed working, so I dunno

[gebby1029]

I don't think you can actually Kill the LED bulb on a 12 volt circuit, Throwing in a fuse will allow less current to flow.
Good because I don't want to wire in any fuses if I don't have to.

If you use the car lighter or any other Constant 12 VDC  Constant you will need to put a switch inline with it otherwise it will ALWAYS be on  .That way you can turn it off.
I got a switch from a malfunctioning speaker system to use so I'm all set on that if I go that route.

If you use a 12 vdc like your Dimmer switch , then it would be on but low voltage so it would be dim, and it would brighten when you put the dimmer switch on.

You can get creative with it too.. Get a 10k Potentiometer,   and wire that in series with the LEDS>. then you can turn the knob and make em brighter or darker... Depending on the RESISTANCE you increase or decrease...
You lost me there but no worries since I want this to be as simple as possible.  It's either on or off.  Thanks for the help above.

I can hook that up for you, however id recomment using leds from ledglow.com . They are pretty inexpensive and a lot easier to set up
Thanks for the offer but no thanks.  I like to do things like this on my own when possible.  I just need some help/guidance so I do everything right the first time.  Also, I already have the accent lighting LED's and upon a quick search, ledglow.com doesn't have the festoons or wedges I'm looking for.

New question: Is there a way I could increase the brightness of two 4 LED accent lights?  I noticed a huge drop in brightness when I hooked one up compared to two from a 12V source (8 AA batteries).  If I am going to use them in my trunk they will need to be brighter.

[Kavik]

you might find some interesting reading here for the wagon trunk lighting 
there's also a link in there for calculating resistors to use for the number of LED's, if you decide to use individual lights rather than your pre-made sets
http://www.scoobymods.com/mod_add_wagon_trunk-t10518.html?t=10518

[gebby1029]

This has not been abandoned.  I am just in the middle of hardwiring my GPS right now (thread with pics and step by step directions to come soon).