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flutyr525
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« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2010, 07:28:53 PM »

for reference, i was quoted ~$150-$200 to have my stock sideskirts painted...less surface area and only 1 piece instead of 2 so <$100 sounds possible afro
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« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2010, 09:59:10 PM »

The clearcoat is where I always run into problems. I can spray it without runs, but it always has a dimpled finish. It still looks ok but it just has a texture to it and doesn't have that glass like finish. I'm sure this is because I am rattle canning it, i'd love to try with a paint gun I could prob do some pretty nice work.

rattle can or not, ive had that problem once or twice and it seems to do it if you dont shake the can enough or dont let the other paint dry throughly...havent run into that texture in a while now. or it could be the kind of clear you buy FYI the wal-mart stuff for a dollar a can is not good at all.

also if you do paint something that is going onto your car, let the paint heal for at least 5 days, put it inside and let it sit, it does help instead of just throwing it on, rattle paint isnt the strongest.
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« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2010, 10:27:30 PM »

i got the dimpled clear a lot when temps dropped at dusk during summer or humidity took went up. 
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« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2010, 10:34:58 PM »

Yea after getting the "dimples" I let it set for a few days then tried to sand/rubbing compound to smooth it out. It was all down hill from there.... I think I actually stripped that one and started fresh, what a nightmare tickedoff
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« Reply #19 on: March 11, 2010, 03:14:01 PM »

just got a quote from a good body shop next door to where I work..80-100 for the hood scoop, 350-450 for a shaved keyhole, emblem and painted trunk with a dent fixed. not to bad and there pretty well known. ac body works. about 100 for rear spats as well.
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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2010, 03:43:15 PM »

i'd do the rear splats and scoop yourself with a color matched rattle can.  items that small are pretty hard to mess up
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« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2010, 04:00:05 PM »

ac body works.
I used to be friends with the owner's son back in our middle/high school days......but don't mention my name.  he was convinced I was a drug dealer for some reason  uglystupid2  2funny

anyway, I've never used them for anything (do tp the drama from the part i mentioned above), but have always heard good things.  I agree though, try the small stuff yourself.  If it comes out good you save yourself enough to pay for half of te trunk work at those prices! If you screw up, you sand it down and prime it and maybe they'll cut you a break on the painting if they don't have to prep  afro  
Worst case you're out like $15 and an hour of your time
« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 04:06:17 PM by Kavik » Logged

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« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2010, 04:25:46 PM »

the color match can was 25bucks....add in primer and clear coat and sand paper and your up to 40 bucks or so. Like I mentioned before, I can do the color spray but I have no confidence that I could clear coat my scoop to look anything like my hoods clear coat. Rattle can clear coat just dosent do a good job imo. maybe im wrong, id just hate to spend a full day, 40-50 bucks and have to go have it it done at a shop anyways. If someones done some rattle can color match and clear on a body part id love to take a look to see what it looks like.

If someone could do the step by step to painting a body piece that would be awesome

what sand paper to prep with
what primer
sand after pimer coats?
sand in between color coats?
sand after last color coat?
let color coat cure for 2-3 days before clear or clear the same day?
sand during clear coating with 2000grit wet or not?

I have done alot of paint research and some of those things change depending who's doing the right up...I would love to do it myself If I thought I could get it to look pretty good.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 04:39:53 PM by Jay9786 » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2010, 08:43:09 PM »

heres what i do and if nick gets his pic of the scoop up here you can see...

i use 320 grit and get it smooth
whatever primer that adheres to the kind of surface you are doing i.e: plastic, fiberglass, metal. rust-oleum would be fine
you can sand down again with 320 grit and then primer again, any more than that you'll be wasting your time
sanding in between your color coats? i have never done that and never had a problem
if you feel the paint isnt smooth enough then wet sand with 2000, and apply again
you can let the coats cure for a few hours, dont have to wait days, then start putting the clear on
again if you think the paint is not smooth or have some run, wet sand with 2000 and apply clear again BUT wayy lighter

here are my wheels i painted




best pics i could fine, they are on the car right now, dont know if you noticed or not when i passed you this morning
« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 08:45:51 PM by RS25BG » Logged

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« Reply #24 on: March 11, 2010, 11:03:31 PM »

ive been practicing for years now and nothing has come out good UNTIL i figured out that prep work is the most important! i plan on putting up a mini booth in my garage here soon to do small stuff...maybe even get a low pressure gun.

i've got a paint gun around here somewhere.  found it on clearance a couple years ago, but never got a compressor, so it's still sitting in the box.....I'll dig it up, see if I can find any details on it if you're interested  afro
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« Reply #25 on: March 12, 2010, 04:01:59 PM »

ordered my scoop from fred...should have it monday. that will give me the weekend to think about how i want to paint it
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« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2010, 03:25:21 PM »

i have a few binks guns and a compressor if you want to buy the paint and clear and go that far with it lemme kno
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