Topic: Questions on Strut Removal/Re-Install (Read 1428 times)

Turbaru · « **on:** April 11, 2011, 02:41:43 PM »

So I found a place that rebuilds/revalves 04-07 sti struts, they also do 08+ front only. The company is Feal Suspension out in Cali, http://www.rallyracingsuspension.com/
Its a 2 day turnaround usually. They do cores, but prefer you send your own.
I am going to have them put in RCE blacks while the struts are there.
1) Is there anything I need to loosen up before I get the car in the air? Or can I pull in the garage, get her on stands and get to work?
2) Is there any particular order things needs to be loosened-up/ removed in?
3) Torque specs on reinstall?

4) Do I even need to touch 'A' when removing the entire assembly?
5) Strut top bolts 'B' are only 14.5 ft/lbs correct?
6) Lower Bolts C and D are going to be siezed most likely?... 6 years old, never been touched!
Would it make sense to PB blast them wednesday and thursday and maybe have a shop break them loose for me a little on the way home from work friday night? I have read where people have used pb and a torch and still had trouble freeing them up. What are the torques for C and D? Something like 145 ft/lbs?
Also, as far as top hats go, can I run the rce's with the oe ones or would group n's make more sense?
Thanks!

idipskoalmint · « **Reply #1 on:** April 11, 2011, 02:51:19 PM »

I want a ride in your car when you get them back; I've been looking at their work for a few months now, since I also have the Blacks.

SideshowBob · « **Reply #2 on:** April 11, 2011, 02:55:04 PM »

1- Yes, the lugs. Nothing for the struts though.
2- It's easiest to do C & D first, then do the strut tops while you have someone hold the whole assembly/wiggle it down and out. It doesn't just fall out if you leave C or D in without a nut.
3- Not sure on C & D just always went to PFT.
4- No, you won't be able to anyways without air.
5- Yes.
6- Yes, PB Blast C & D. Then you might be able to hand break them, might need help. I was always able to do it with a big ass breaker but mine were never tight for 6 years.

Strut tops- I think Group N's are kinda a waste considering how much they cost. OE ones work fine.

rshaw123 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 11, 2011, 02:56:04 PM »

1) No.
2) nope
3) (put input here, I only have ever used air gun for this)
4) The only time you touch A is when you are taking the assembly apart once out of the car.
5) Just do these hand tight, then lower the car and use a ratchet and tighten until it is snug.
6) PB blaster will be very handy to put on these, but I didn't have too when I was removing the factory struts off of my 97 Legacy that was a NY state car all of its life.

Turbaru · « **Reply #4 on:** April 11, 2011, 04:16:56 PM »

Quote

I want a ride in your car when you get them back; I've been looking at their work for a few months now, since I also have the Blacks.

Ride, sure, but you should drive. How do you like the blacks?

Quote

1- Yes, the lugs.

Funny guy...

Thanks for the input. Shooting for this weekend, should have them back end of next week.
I love the grease fittings they put on the rears too!

SideshowBob · « **Reply #5 on:** April 11, 2011, 04:33:33 PM »

Quote from: Turbaru on April 11, 2011, 04:16:56 PM

Funny guy...

I wasn't even trying, I always get the Jeep in the air and realize I have to let it back down because I forgot to loosen the lugs

Turbaru · « **Reply #6 on:** April 11, 2011, 07:50:34 PM »

yea, definitely forgot those lugs once or twice

idipskoalmint · « **Reply #7 on:** April 11, 2011, 10:54:37 PM »

Quote from: Turbaru on April 11, 2011, 04:16:56 PM

Ride, sure, but you should drive. How do you like the blacks?

I like them, but would prefer better struts (hence, my consideration for the FS revalve). There isn't the bobble-head effect that I had with OE springs.

FWIW: I have GTWorx camber plates in the front, and regular OE tops in the rear. I had talked to the guys @ TiC, and mentioned I was working on a budget, but didn't mind spending the money to "do it once, do it right". He said not to worry about the rear Group-Ns. If anything, I really like what I've seen in the Whiteline Com-C mounts; at under $200/set, those might be worth considering.

If you haven't ordered the Blacks and want to see how they are on regular OE struts, let me know. I should be driving into work on Wed/Fri, so I won't be that far from you.

Turbaru · « **Reply #8 on:** April 12, 2011, 09:24:14 AM »

haha, bobble-head effect, thats a good way put it. Blacks should be here by the end of the week but it would be nice to take a peek. Im pretty busy here the rest of the week but Friday might work. I am interested in seeing what you say about the difference in Tic's complete Holy shift set and just the lever and pivot bushings i installed this past weekend. It was kinda ratchety on sat. and sun. but last night and this morning it was feeling much better.

Turbaru · « **Reply #9 on:** April 13, 2011, 03:27:32 PM »

After install, how long should I let everything settle before getting an alignment?

SideshowBob · « **Reply #10 on:** April 13, 2011, 03:40:20 PM »

I never waited more than a day or two intentionally. One quick ride on a bad road should settle everything.

Turbaru · « **Reply #11 on:** April 13, 2011, 03:45:35 PM »

Cool. Thanks man!

Turbaru · « **Reply #12 on:** April 14, 2011, 10:22:01 PM »

Success... That was a chore and a half!

Im going to chuckle like a bastard when I put anti-sieze on those lower fuckers! All else went smoothly.

And I remembered those lugs yo

SideshowBob · « **Reply #13 on:** April 14, 2011, 10:33:30 PM »

Nice.

Man Sedans suck. Wagons are such easy access.

Turbaru · « **Reply #14 on:** April 14, 2011, 11:29:24 PM »

Yea, that rear strut top bolt closest to the outside is a good one! Seats weigh nothing, and those damn, rusted, corroded lower rear 19mm bolts... I say fuck you joboo, no rum for you! All the threads on the rears had some white battery acid looking corrosion on them.